Pro-Sports

I must confess that this is something we (The Rockrats) never really adhered to. We made a bad habit of poor communication which occasionally landed us in trouble (usually only in the outdoor situations, however). We would have done well if we had heeded a calling system similar to the one below.

That said, I can bring to mind a few outdoor situations where verbal communication was useless, in particular the second pitch of “Training Day” in Fumakilla, Nyamuk, where there is no visual between climber and belayer and the wind carries away your calls. In such a case, communication occurs mostly through tugs on the rope.

The following is from Princeton University Outdoor Action:

Climbing Calls

These calls are designed to be easy to remember. The basic sequence goes 4, 3, 2, 1 in decreasing number of syllables. There is a paired response from the climber to her belayer at each point. The particular words are important because when it is hard to hear, the intonation and order of the syllables may help distinguish which call is beginning given.

Climber: “Ready to Climb” (4) = I’m ready

Belayer: “On Belay” (3) = I have you on belay

Climber: “Climbing” (2) = I’m starting to climb

Belayer: “Climb” (1) = Go ahead

Other Climbing Calls

Climber: “Slack” = I need extra rope

Belayer: “Thank You” = Received

Climber: “Up Rope” = I have too much slack

Belayer: “Thank You” = Received

Climber: “That’s Me” = The slack is gone

Belayer: “Thank You” = Received

Climber: “Falling” = I’m going to fall

Belayer: Usually no need to respond verbally

Climber: “Belay Off” = Request after reaching the top

Belayer: “Belay off” = You are no longer on belay

Popularity: 51% [?]

Final Check Before Climbing

Once both climber and belayer are tied in and set up, stop and both partners should check the setup. Make sure of the following:

1) All harness buckles are doubled back.

2) All knots are properly tied and dressed.

3) All carabiners are properly aligned, and screwed shut.

4) The belayer is clipped into the floor anchor on the side opposite the brake hand.

Source: Princeton University Outdoor Action

Popularity: 50% [?]

The following information is from Princeton University Outdoor Action. I have made a few annotations because I was taught differently and I believe what I was taught is actually safer.

How to Belay

Belaying itself is relatively simple provided one is always paying attention to your climbing partner. The end of the rope which passes through the top-rope anchor and goes back down to the climber is called the “live” end of the rope. The “live” end is handled by the “guide” hand. The other end of the rope is the “brake” end which is handled by the “brake” hand. You must always have at least one hand on the brake end of the rope at all times. If you don’t, and the climber begins to fall, you will not be able to regain control of the rope, and the climber may be injured. As the climber proceeds up the wall, it is the belayer’s job to take up the rope and make sure there is no slack in the system.

This limits the distance the climber can fall. Make sure both hands never leave the rope!

Taking Rope In (as the climber ascends)

1) With both hands firmly on the rope, the guide hand pulls the rope towards the ATC as the brake hand pulls rope out and away from the ATC (Figure 1).

2) When the guide hand reaches the ATC, hold the rope fast with the brake hand, while sliding the guide hand up the live end of the rope until it is above the brake hand (Figure 2).

Alternative step 2: When the guide hand reaches the ATC, lock the rope with the brake hand (see Figure 6). Shift the guide hand and place it just after the ATC. While the guide hand locks the rope, shift the brake hand up the rope until it is positioned just after the guide hand. Now you can move your guide hand up the live end of the rope ready to take in more slack. If you follow this step, then step 3 becomes obsolete but it is important to note that one hand must always be holding the brake end of the rope!

3) The guide hand now grasps both ends of the rope and pinches both off with the thumb while the brake hand slides back down the rope to the ATC. The hands are now back in position to repeat step 1 (Figure 3).The brake hand never leaves the rope!

Letting Rope Out (when the climber needs slack)

1) With both hands firmly on the rope, the guide hand shuffles the rope away from the ATC (Figure 4 - 5). Locking Off the Rope Locking off is to keep more rope from paying out if the climber is falling, or if you need to hold tension on the rope (for example while a climber rests).

1) Using the brake hand, bend the rope across the ATC. This collapses the ATC onto the locking carabiner and locks the rope off (Figure 6).

Popularity: 100% [?]

More beginner’s rock climbing information from Princeton University Outdoor Action:

Setting Up an ATC for Belaying

1) Clip a locking carabiner through both the groin loop and the waist loops of your harness (the same loops you tie into).

2) Take a loop (bight) of rope from the end which the climber is not tied into and pass it through one of the two slots in the ATC (both slots are identical).

3) Clip both the wire cable on the ATC and the bight of rope into the locking carabiner, and screw the gate of the carabiner shut.

4) If you in a rock climbing gym, clip a second carabiner into your harness at the waist and groin loops on the side opposite your braking hand. Clip this carabiner into one of the pre-tied loops on the anchor ropes attached to the floor at a point which offers the least slack in the anchor rope. This prevents the belayer (you) from being pulled off the floor in the event the climber takes a fall (or if the climber weighs more than you do).

Popularity: 24% [?]

More safety tips from Princeton University Outdoor Action:

How to Tie-in to a Climbing Harness

One of the most important safety procedures that one can do before climbing is tying into the rope and anchor system properly. The knot that is most commonly used for tying into a harness is the Figure 8 Follow-through (or rewoven Figure 8). The Figure 8 Follow-through has a variety of advantages over other knots, as it is easy to tie, strong enough to hold the forces generated by a fall, and is relatively easy to untie after it has been loaded by a fall.

1) To tie into a harness with a Figure 8 Follow-through, tie a Figure 8 knot in the rope approximately 3 - 3.5 feet (1 - 1.5 meters) from the end of the rope (Figures 1 - 4 below)

2) Feed the running end of the rope through both the crotch loop on the harness (the one joining the two leg loops) and the waist loop of the harness.

3) Feed the end of the rope back through the existing Figure 8 knot (follow the Figure 8 back through), starting at the end closest to the harness and finishing up with the live end of the rope (Figures 5 -8 below). Make sure the knot be properly “dressed;” the Follow-through should always maintain the same relative position to the original Figure 8. (in other words the original and the Follow-through eights do not overlap or cross.)

4) Make sure that there is at least 3 inches of tail leaving the knot. Tie off the extra tail of rope to the live end of the rope using several overhand knots or a double fisherman’s knot.

Popularity: 18% [?]

These came from Thin Man way back when we were rock climbing addicts. We used to collect anything and everything that would inspire us to climb harder and better. I kept these photos because looking at them used to make my palms sweat. Heck! It still does…

Popularity: 17% [?]

This came from a website called My Mountain Goat. I don’t know who wrote it but I received it through one of the many emails posted to me by the Rockrats. I like what the writer has written about climbing because I really identify with it. In fact, all the Rockrats identified with these words when we each read the article.

The writer also has some good take-home messages in this article. If you’re a climber, whether you’ve been at it for years or just a newbie beginner, read this and take it to heart. It might just help you become a better climber.

Rewards of Climbing

Folks have been trying to express the reasons and rewards of climbing for a long time. It’s tough. I’m afraid I won’t have the time or words to approach it now. But I’ll make a start. Climbing can be anything from a crutch for our egos to a tool for personal transformation. It can be exercise, sport, art and religion.

We each have our own reasons and rewards for climbing. We may not even understand our reasons or be able to explain the rewards, but we feel something when we climb, and feel compelled to go on climbing. For some climbing is like dancing; a joy in movement and self-expression. It can be merely exercise, which is pretty dang important to get! For others, climbing is mainly the backdrop for camaraderie and deeper friendships. We epic and we bond. We share this common experience, and now we belong somewhere. Some climbers become adrenaline junkies. We get a little jittery if we don’t get the “rush” of some hard cranking on a regular basis.

It’s easy for us to get our ego mixed up in our climbing. Most of the time, we are completely wrapped up in a mental dialog about ourselves. We weave an illusory concept of ourselves from our personal history and personal insecurities. That collection of concepts creates a false sense of identity which is our ego. We talk to ourselves internally about how we’re doing, what we want, and what we fear. We struggle to find something special about our lives and ourselves. I have found that the false sense of self that this incessant dialog creates becomes a major limitation to peace and harmony in life.

We’re seduced by our self-concept, and even if we experience climbing on some deeper level, it’s hard not to relate it to our ego as well. Climbing is exotic and sexy. Being a “Climber” makes us special and elevates us above the mundane masses (at least in our minds). When we do something we didn’t think we could, we feel better about ourselves. The more we feel our life’s validity is related to climbing, the more we tend to think “our” type of climbing is superior to that of others. “Our” way of climbing is ethical and pure! Others don’t understand because they haven’t reached “Our” level. Still, it feels better to feel good about yourself than bad. Climbing’s not a bad way to get there, if you can do it without putting others down in the process.

Sometimes climbing gives us a taste of something beyond our ego. Most of us have experienced flashes of peace and harmony while climbing. When I’m balanced on tiny holds and a lapse in concentration could send me plummeting to unknown consequences, I can’t afford to be distracted by mental chatter. The circumstance of climbing brings me absolutely into the present moment. My whole being comes into focus on the problem of ascending stone. In the face of potential struggle for survival, the petty concerns of my little self dare not surface. I feel the power of my real being, integrated and intimate. I have the opportunity to realize that I would be better off without the incessant depressing pep talk of the mind. I start to break the habit of constant associative thinking. Being present and centered in the here and now is a state that is inherently fulfilling. Don’t take my word for it, just notice for yourself when you are out on the stone, feeling in the groove! If you find you’re having a bad day at the crags, take note of your state of mind. Collect yourself fully and

see if things change.

Many sports have enabled people to have peak experiences. Anything that concentrates the mind creates a window for self-discovery. Climbing is an especially potent tool because the apparent risk DEMANDS our concentration. Concentration is not “thinking hard”. It’s the focus of all our attention. Learning to focus and act in the face of fear gives us the power to respond when others simply panic. If I were a passenger in a car spinning out on an icy road, I would want a climber at the wheel.

Beside the intense experience of Being realized at peak moments on challenging climbs, the whole immersion in nature soaks us in peace and beauty. Instead of just walking over the ground, our feet insulated with shoes, we embrace nature with our bare hands, with our whole bodies. By learning to use our body in concert to accomplish improbable moves, we reclaim our natural state of physical wholeness. An unconscious attitude that our arms are accessories for manipulating phones and faxes is replaced by a comfortable and intuitive sense of our physical totality.

When we go climbing, we return to a world undomesticated by artificial routines and pretensions. Most of us get into the habit of sleepily taking our world for granted. Climbing interrupts our usual world. Trees look different from hundreds of feet up. The whole landscape unfolds from a higher vantage point. The change in perspective allows us to have a different view on our lives as well.

When I soloed Zodiac, my second grade VI, in 1982, I was immersed in a week of solitary concentration in the vertical environment. 300 feet from the top I was ravaged by an intense storm that rained and snowed on me until things looked quite grim. Between breaks in the

storm, I crept up to the summit and was redeemed! After a week without walking, and without many of the everyday experiences that I took for granted, everything seemed new again. Plants and trees seemed to explode with life. When I removed the rack and walked

around unroped, I felt like an astronaut romping in the reduced gravity of the moon! The friends who came to help me carry gear down were magical beings. My heart swelled from feelings of brotherhood. When we reached the car, I felt like we were driving a million miles

an hour. I can’t even describe the hot food and cold beer. I enjoyed a refreshed experience of everything.

You might find yourself in different ways than I have. Your perspective on the blessings of climbing will be different. I just hope that you look within yourself and find out more about what climbing means to you; what it teaches you. Don’t let anyone tell you what climbing “should” be for you! Own it yourself! Maybe you’ll find that climbing helps you offer a better person to your whole world. The danger of domestication threatens you and your family. They won’t be any happier in a sleepy daily routine either. They may have to find themselves in their own way too, but you can be the example. Take the freedom, fearlessness, and joy from your world of climbing and pass it on.

Popularity: 10% [?]

More definitions on grades from The Climbing Dictionary:

The grade of a climb is a subjective indication its severity, at least in the US. In the UK, the word grade is also used to indicate the technical difficulty of the climb, what is called rating in the US. Some grading systems measure the average length of a climb, others consider the general safety of the climb, etc. Below are some of the more popular grading systems. These generally cover both free and aid climbing, but not ice climbing.

The North American Grading System

In North America, grades denote the normal amount of time required to complete a route. This time is based on a team of average climbers using normal techniques.

Class I - Requires 1-2 hours
Class II - Requires half a day
Class III - Requires most of a day
Class IV - Requires a very long day
Class V - Requires an overnight stay on the route
Class VI - Requires a few days
Class VII - Expedition

The Alpine Grading System

Routes in the Western Alps are generally given an overall grade - in addition to a pitch-by-pitch rating.

The overall grade says something about the general difficulty of the climb. It takes into account the technical difficulty, the quality of the belays, the nature of the rock, the exposure of the climb, the objective dangers, etc. The grading system uses letters (derived from the french words - in parenthesis) and sometimes uses “+” and “-” to indicate smaller differences.

F - Easy. (Facile)
PD - Moderately difficult. (Peu Difficile)
AD - Fairly difficult. (Assez Difficile)
D - Difficult. (Difficile)
TD - Very difficult. (Très Difficile)
ED - Extremely difficult. (Extrêmement Difficile)
ABO - Horrible. (Abominable)

The German Grading System

The German grading system considers the seriousness or Ernsthaftigkeitsgrad of a climb. This grading scale considers all aspects of the climb which have nothing to do with the technical difficulty: average runout distance, quality of the protection placements, objective dangers, quality of the rock, etc. The scale goes from E0 to E5. E0 is a normal route, with solid fixed pro and ample opportunities for placing pro. E5, at the other end of the scale, stands for a largely unprotected and unprotectable route with manky pitons and crummy rock. On an E5 climb, falling is generally a lethal idea. In most topos, routes with an Ernsthaftigkeitsgrad above E0 are marked as such.

Popularity: 11% [?]

Personally, I’ve never done any aid climbing before but I thought this might come in handy for those of you interested to try it out. This also came from the Climbing Dictionary:

The good news about aid climbing rating scales is that the whole world uses a single scale that goes from A1 to A5. The bad news is that there are many interpretations of that scale. It will all depend on where and when that first ascent was made.

For most purposes, the following - general - aid rating scale will do:

A1: All placements are rock solid and easy.

A2: Placements are still bomber, but the placements are awkward and a few difficult may be difficult.

A3: Many placements are difficult, but there is the occasional bomber piece.

A4: There are several placements in a row that will hold nothing more than body weight.

A5: 20 meters (60 ft) or more of body placements in a row.

In Europe, where most aid climbs were made long ago, this scale may be adjusted downward. Put simply, A3 placements are difficult, but will hold a short fall. A4 will involve some body weight placements, but not necessarily many in a row. And A5 is just unheard of. In Europe, A0 is used to indicate that fixed (and solid) pro is in place.

In the USA, modern equipment and the unrelentless drive to climb ever bigger and more difficult Big Walls, has pushed aid climbing to limits that were unimaginable a few decades ago. This has also changed the interpretation of the rating scales. This is how John Long and John Middendorf interpret the modern aid climbing ratings it in their ‘Big Wall’ book:

A0: Hanging from gear, stepping on pitons, pulling up on nuts, etc. Everything that doesn’t require aiders and can’t be honestly called ‘free climbing’. Also known as “french free”.

A1: Easy aid. Placements are easy and bomber. Each piece should hold a fall.

A2: Moderate aid. Solid but often awkward and strenuous placements. Maybe a difficult placement or two above good pro. Falls pose no danger.

A2+: Moderate aid, but with more tenuous placements above good pro. There is a potential for serious falls, but these will generally be otherwise uneventfull.

A3: Hard aid. Requires many tenuous placements in a row and pieces need to be tested before weighting them. There should be solid placements within the pitch, but they are rather few and far between.

During a fall, up to eight pieces of pro may rip out, but there generally is little serious danger.

Takes several hours to complete a pitch.

A3+: A3, but with a dangerous fall potential.

A4: Serious aid. Most placements hold little less than body weight and falls are serious affairs.

Being 10 to 15 meters (30 to 50 ft) above the last solid piece is not uncommon.

A4+: Very serious aid. Placements are often very marginal and pitches require many hours to complete.

A5: Extreme aid. No piece in the whole pitch can be trusted to hold a fall. No bolts or rivets in A5 pitches.

A6: A5 with poor belays that won’t hold a fall. The leader pops and the whole team is airborne. No one sane has ever done this, and no one insane who tried came back to tell us about it.

Popularity: 16% [?]

Lookie what I found… Another trip report from the days of the Rockrats written by yours truly…

N.B. The events in this update may not be true to history. Some scenes and happenings have been modified, invented and recreated at the discretion of the author. It hasn’t been edited either because I was really sleepy when I wrote it - so please excuse all the typos.

Climbing at Genting or is it Really?

Ever ambitious, the rockrats decided to make a productive climbing trip up to Genting leaving last weekend. The plan was to leave KL on Saturday arvo, climb Genting wall in the evening and head to White Wall on Sunday.

My spider senses were tingling – I knew something was amiss here so I opted out of the trip. Adrian, Kit, Jason and Fearless Leader set out for Genting late afternoon, followed by Lelek, Su Chin and CJ in the evening.

Sunday morning in:

- PJ:

Richard – grumble, grumble, grumble…

Shen – rolls out of bed to go do laundry.

Mike Tee – up early for a work launch (I’m presuming)

Mike Mor, Debbie, Pui Chee, Ahli, Han Chong, Ooi, and Penn hit Damai wall pretty early on Sunday morning.

- Genting:

zzzzzz

- Damai:

The wall was surprisingly quiet for a Sunday, but the tranquility and route availability was relished by all who were present. When I arrived, Mor, Deb, PC, Ahli, HC, Ooi and Penn had already warmed up and were hitting the wall pretty hard.

*beep* *beep* I received Adrian’s SMS informing us that the Genting crew would be down to meet us at White Wall around 1 o’clock.

As predicted, Adrian and crew got caught up at Genting wall and never made it down from Genting on Sunday morning. The message at 2:30 was that they were still climbing at Genting and that they may or may not turn up at White Wall. By 4pm, another message comes through from Adrian:

“As you’ve probably figured, we’re naw coming to White Wall… Enjoy your climb”

Unfortunately, the Damai group never made it to whitewall either… Adrian, I fink you are absolutely right - start climbing on some wall and we can forget about climbing anywhere else. There’s no such fing as “one climb” only… Although, the two Mikes, Penn and Debbie made it to Volleyball, a.k.a. The Rubbish Dump (only because it was raining at Damai).

Climbing achievements: (information on the Genting crew was obtained second hand through Adrian, so I apologise in advance for any mistakes).

- Genting:

Adrian - projected a route on the steep overhang and succeeded in ascending up until the third last bolt (excellent stuff!)

Su Chin – climbing in top form as she worked on her leading – almost made it but still battling the mental game of “up-climb/down-climb”

Kit, Lelek, Jason and Lai – sorry peoples, I didn’t hear what you got up to, so please fill the blanks.

- Damai:

Pui Chee – overcoming the fear of outdoor climbing

Ahli, Mor, HC and Debbie – first time climbing on “Water on the Rock” and everyone managed to finish the route. Ahli – great footwork, one of the climbers at Damai wall made that comment. Debbie – overcame the vertical challenge at the crux (’twas a bully-short-people move). HC – nicely done, despite being sick. Mor – worked the crux without beta.

Ooi and Anne – completed Monsoon top rope.

Penn – dunno what to write, lah… You seem to send everything and have eliminated your fear of leading outdoors. Nice clean on “3 Bros” - again. Sorry I didn’t climb that route, I was up on the multi-pitch.

Me – Completed multi-pitch on “Up Step”/”Belakan Habis” with Dafi and Azam. “Up Step” is a 5C climb to the right of the drain. It begins just right of that “pond”. “Belakan Habis” is a 6B climb requiring some nice stemming and the utilization of a stalagtite. The crux was a mild overhang with “Thank God” jugs; even then, I could still feel the pump in my arms and I was sure I was going to peel off.

Azam was belaying Dafi. S comes along and looks up.

S: What’s the grade of the second pitch?

A: Oh, about a 6A. (N.B. When Azam, Akmal, Nizam or Adi tell you the grade of a route – NEVER believe them because EVERYTHING is a 5C/6A).

S: Okay, I suppose I can do it.

(At the first anchor, S looks up)

S: Looks quite interesting.

D: Want to lead it?

S: Ahhh, I don’t think so. Looks hard. The wall’s quite smooth. You sure it’s a 6A?

D: Don’t think so, looks like 6B to me.

S: I thought Azam said it was a 6A.

D: That’s what they always say. You know Adi’s idea of a jug is a crimp. I don’t think I’ll do it.

S: Why?

D: (Dafi bends his wrist and there a nob of bone protruding – it looked grotesque) Wrist injury.

(Azam appears from the ledge and continues on to the second pitch. He cleans it easily. I was to follow next and clean up because Dafi was bailing.)

S: (Early into the climb) *beep* *Beep* *BEEP* Thank God I wasn’t stupid enough to agree to lead this! (At the crux) Oh man! Feel so pumped. I think I’m gonna drop. (Looking up at Azam) Hmmm… will he catch me if I fall… Oh shit! You’re asking this NOW? Shouldn’t you have thought about that before you started climbing!?

- Volleyball

Mor – projected Tiger. Heard you did well. Great stuff!

Incident Report

Well, actually, there were none. But I feel I should add in the input from Ooi. I was climbing Monsoon from base to the second anchor. I have done this before with both Lelek and Mike Tee on belay so I was familiar with the routine. This was the first time I was climbing with Ooi on belay. My mistake was in assuming that he knew the routine. I communicated the fact that I intended to continue to the second anchor, but I never said I was going to rappel down. I just presumed he would know because the climb is nearly 60m and my rope is 60m. When I reached the second anchor and shouted down for Ooi to go off belay, he thought I was crazy and he hesitated until I explained I was going to rappel.

Lessons learned – always, ALWAYS communicate your intensions before climbing, especially when you are doing something different to the normal climbing routine. I thought it was great that Ooi questioned first rather than blindly obliging. We may think that someone knows what they are doing, but we all do make mistakes from time to time and you never know when that mistake will be. I’ve seen veteran climbers make mistakes despite having climbed for many years.

It’s also best to communicate first on the ground and minimize the yelling of instructions because at that distance, it is difficult to hear. Of course, if there is a necessary change of plans, it can’t be helped. It’s always good to reconfirm that your climber wants you to go off belay before you perform the action. I’m sure we’ve all had the experience of miscommunication before.

To all rockrats – great climbing!

Next episode: White Wall – the return!

Popularity: 13% [?]