Dec 07 2006

Red Rock, Batu Cave

Published by figur8 at 1:24 pm under Malaysia, maps, red rock, rock climbing, topos

I’ve only ever climbed at Red Rock twice. Quite early in our outdoor climbing experience (October 2002), Thin Man, Fearless Leader and Mutant Man made their first trip to scout the area. I wasn’t able to follow because I was back in Australia for my annual pilgrimage. They took loads of photos and promised me we would climb there again when I got back and we did.

Even without photos and trip reports, I still remember my first visit there. I could climb all of one route which was the easiest route there (Return of the Spotted Owl, 6A), besides the natural pro routes. Despite it being the easiest route, I still had to cheat getting up the start because I didn’t have the arm power to get over the overhang.

Getting There:

You can find a description on how to get there on Rock Climbing - Red Rock which also includes a description of the area and route selection. There’s more information on Red Rock at The Rock Pod - Red Rock, which provides a short description about the area and the routes available.

At the time of writing this post, there was a recent post on Rock Climbing that mentioned the access to White Wall and Red Rock was blocked off, although not much detail was mentioned. It has been a very long time since I climbed there so I don’t really know what the conditions are like. All I remember was that there was a pond nearby which attracted a lot of mosquitoes, making insect repellants a handy addition to your gear.

The following descriptions were another one of those gems of information I saved back when I was studying the area.

The rock here is similar in character to Pra-nang in Thailand, producing some good steep routes. The routes described are all bolted, although some of the top anchors could do with re-equipping. Shade can be found for most of the day. A 60m rope is required for some of the routes.

Approach as for White Wall and park near the football field at the end of the kampung. Facing the hill, follow a track at the right hand corner of the football field through the small kampung with the lake on the right hand side. The crag is situated at the end of this kampung on the left, just a few metres up a bank from the track.

You can also follow my map and see if that helps you make sense of the description on “how to get there”.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Below is a topo I saved from the same site that I retrieved the above information from. There are ten routes in total, two of which require natural pro.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

The routes are described from left to right and are numbered consistent with the topo:-

1) Blood brothers, 6b+
Yuen-Li, Kenny, Richard, 10 Sep 95

2) Tomodachi, 6b
Asada, Yuen-Li, Khairul, Kenny, 15 Aug 95

3) Return of the Spotted owl, (splits half way) 6a both left and right
Yuen-Li, Phillip Sigmund 15 Jul 95

4) Owl Face, 5+ (natural pro. to stalagtite)

5) Sweet child of mine, 6b/6b+
Yuen-Li, Kenny, Shafiee, Nov 95

6) Nacho cheese, 7b
Kioshi Yoshida, May 96

7) Yen’s route. 6b+/6c
Yen, Kenny, Khairul, Jun 95

8) Cool Ranch, 7a
Kioshi Yoshida, May 96

9) The first temptation, 6b
Yuen-Li, Kenny, 1 Jan 96

10) Atlantis 5+/6a (natural pro)

Nomad Adventure also has a very brief description about Red Rock: Nomad Adventure - Red Rock.

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